Pattern Maker

MASTER PATTERN MAKER

DuratION: 160 LESSONS 480 hOURS

The Pattern Maker is the person in charge of the transformation of the designs created by the fashion stylist, or by the fashion designer, into concrete patterns, he’s the connection between the style and the realization of the paper patterns including the development of the sizes. He makes the paper patterns in the basic size, supervises the defectiveness of the prototypes, and realizes grading of sizes manually, or with the use of CAD systems. The industrial pattern maker works closely with the stylist, the CAD manager, the sampler, and the production manager. The industrial pattern maker must have excellent knowledge in order to construct the paper patterns, he must know the geometric formulas, he must know the anthropometric tables as well, and he also uses CAD systems for Pattern Making.

The Masters in Industrial Pattern Making is an advanced specialization course for apparel technicians, with high technological content. The training course includes the teaching of the patterns making techniques, starting from the technical drawing of the bases (skirts, trousers, shirts, dresses, jackets, etc.) and then progressing to the fantasies, developing models of any line, shape and wearability, starting from the fashion designer’s sketch. Our modeling method is unique, it does not include the use of squares, protractors and curvilinear but only pencil, paper and ruler, as must be a highly professional method. It is a geometric method based on the Cartesian axes, (straight wire and wire transversal), developed in over 50 years of experience, with the collaboration of the most important clothing production companies.

INFORMATIONS
  • Start-up: September
  • Attendance: From Tuesday to Friday from 9.00 to 12.00, Tuesday from 14.30 to 17.30
  • Enrollment: Until June. Limited number.
  • Subjects: Basis and fancy pattern making. Grading. Cut and manifacturing techniques, Lectra CAD Suite
  • Professional outlets: Companies producing clothes, fashion workshops, self-employment
  • Success Story
  • Fee: 4.000,00 euro ( Tax Included)
PAYMENT
  • One Year: 670 euro  at the enrollment + 9 monthly installments of 370 euro

lectra Modaris V8r2 Scuola di Moda Vitali

PROGRAM

PATTERN MAKING
  • Basic skirt – 12 fancy skirts from sketches and fashion illustrations
  • Basic trousers – 6 pairs of fancy trousers from sketches and fashion illustrations
  • Shirt and blouse with tailored sleeves and fancy collars
  • 6 patterns blouses (raglan, Kimono sleeves, etc.)
  • Semi-loose-fitting dress with breast dart. 8 fancy dresses from sketches -and fashion illustrations.
  • Anatomically designed top with breast dart and tailored sleeves. 24 fancy transformations.
  • Anatomically designed top with raglan sleeves, drop sleeves, kimono -sleeves with gusset, etc.
  • Basic Man’s jacket with casual revers and two-piece sleeves.
  • Woman’s jacket with breast dart. 6 fancy jackets from sketches and -fashion illustrations.
  • Basic heavy jacket with raglan sleeves. Coat for men.
  • 6 fancy coats and heavy jackets from sketches and fashion illustrations.
  • Pattern layout from sketches and pictures of evening and wedding dresses.
CAD PATTERN MAKIN (LECTRA Certified)
  • Basic notions of information technology
    Study of hardware and software components, CAD – CAM Lectra (Modaris, Diamino, Vigiprint) graphic programs and the Windows operating system.
  • Creating the Pattern
    Digitisation of the finished pattern. Modifying the pattern using the previous digitisation. Creating and codifying of the pattern and its sizes. Analysing the paper pattern: explaining the construction points and of their positioning on the images, checking of the video pattern, access route, pattern registration, practical exercises
  • CAD Pattern Making
    Access routes, creating and codifying of the libraries for a correct data filing. Modifying the pattern, creation of new versions, like pockets, belts, etc. Video application of the development. Copy of the development, from point to point, of the same image and of different images. Setting out of sewing figures and defining of the sewing angles for the industrialisation of the models. Adding of nicks, internal holes, texts. Creating new versions of the pattern. Adding of extreme and intermediate sizes to the existing size list. Changing of shifting of the basic size. Putting together of the different pattern components
  • CAD placements
    Creating of the placement card, creating of restrictions in order to prevent/allow the movement of the different components according to the kind of fabric used. Preparing of the placement. Size analogy, new version and fabric with an existing placement, adding of sizes/versions, adding of previously created placements. How to obtain and use a correct and functional placement, costs optimisation.
GRADING
  • Industrialisation of the pattern: distinction of elements, fabric, lining and adhesives
  • Setting out of sewing figures.Grading of 4 patterns of skirt
  • Grading of 2 patterns of trousers
  • Grading of 3 patterns of a blouse with various sleeves and collars
  • Grading of 3 patterns of dress
  • Grading of 4 anatomically designed fancy tops
  • Grading of 4 jackets and sleeves
  • Grading of 3 coats and heavy jackets
CLO3D
  • 1 LESSON
    Notions of the program: the main features and software tools.
    DXF import and work setup
    What is an avatar, the 2D and 3D part of the program.
    Fabrics, accessories, seams and components for the presentation and sewing of the garment.
    Part of exercise (+exercise at home)
  • 2 LESSON
    General review of the previous lesson.
    Control of homework.
    Setting up a personal or group project for the final presentation.
    First notions of virtual sewing: The T-Shirt.
    Clothing sewing with stitching and backstitch.
    The modification of the garment and the fabric and color variants.
    Part of exercise (+exercise at home)
  • 3 LESSON
    General review of the previous lesson and control of the homework.
    The shirt: sewing of the garment, changes to the pattern of the shirt.
    The skirt: sewing of the garment and its modifications.
    Part of exercise (+ exercise at home)
  • 4 LESSON
    General review of the previous lesson and control of the homework.
    The trousers: sewing of the garment and its modifications.
    3D placement: printing and positioning, with related consumption and variants of the placement.
    Part of exercise (+exercise at home)
  • 5 LESSON
    General review of the previous lesson and control of the homework.
    Rendering: what is a rendering?
    The rendering settings: the lights, the scenery and the photographic set poses.
    Part of exercise (+exercise at home)
  • 6 LESSON
    General review of the previous lesson and control of the homework.
    The virtual show: the poses and the walk of the avatar.
    The simulation of the catwalk + creation of the video.
    Part of exercise (+exercise at home)
  • 7 LESSON
    General review of the previous lesson and control of the homework.
    The outfit: putting together a complete outfit with top and bottom, with its components.
    Part of exercise (+ exercise at home, with the creation and presentation of one’s personal outfit).
  • 8 LESSON
    General review of the previous lesson and control of the homework.
    Presentation and explanation of the project created by each student.

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